How to make a figured ceiling from gipsokartona own hands

Gypsum board, which has been around for a long time in our market, is especially good in that it allows you to create completely different geometric shapes and turn your home into an amazingly beautiful place.

Very often, craftsmen and designers use a figured ceiling made of plasterboard in the design of houses and apartments, which is relatively easy to install, but produces an absolutely compelling impression. A little later we will tell you in detail about how all this is done.

The general list of works

In order for the work to argue, it is very important to plan for herself her plan. Here is an approximate sequence of those actions by which you create your own figured ceiling from gypsum board (you will find plenty of such materials in this material). However, we will not be distracted:

• First, the "native" ceiling is measured, the dimensions of each part of the curtain cover are estimated.
• Possible options are explored, photo. At this stage it is advisable to imagine adequately which one you can make a figured ceiling from gypsum cardboard with your own hands. Do not overestimate your strength! It is better to start with simpler forms and smaller rooms.
• Then you need to determine the sequence according to which you will mount the levels.
• According to the scale of the room, the amount of materials is carefully calculated. Purchased the entire required volume (with a margin of at least 10%).
• If the ceiling has significant potholes and unevenness, it makes sense to fix the mesh on it and plaster it again.
• The marking of the false ceiling is done.
• The power frame is assembled.
• In it, all necessary communications are laid in advance.
• Once again, measurements of the finished frame are made, after which patterns are made, along which all the curly details are cut out.
• The carcass is plastered with plasterboard.
• Mounted all the lighting equipment, a finishing finish is made on the ceiling.

Preparation and markup

First of all, you need to prepare a "native" ceiling and walls. It is necessary to completely remove the falling pieces of plaster: they are quite massive, they can easily break the figured ceiling from plasterboard, so all your work will go wrong. Of course, you need to dismantle lighting fixtures, and clean the surfaces of foreign objects like hammered nails.

First you need to determine the height of the very first, the lower level of your multi-tier ceiling. Experts say that it should be at least 25 mm below the minimum mark of the main ceiling, since this volume will be occupied by both the drywall itself and the profile to which it will be mounted. Find this point and make a noticeable marking on the wall, on which you will be guided later.

Using a water or laser level, transfer this markup to all walls, connecting the marks with a pencil. However, professional installers for this purpose use a thread with paint (or choklin "in a scientific way"). To make a mark with it, grip the thread with two fingers, tighten and sharply release.

Seven times measure ...

Finally, once again, make sure that the markup you made is really accurate, and there are no gross errors in its lines. Attention! When building a figured ceiling from gypsum board with your own hands, always pay special attention to the accuracy of measurements: if you treat this issue negligently, the whole construction may well be skewed, which obviously will not add beauty to your housing.

And now you need to find in the room corner, which is closest to the mark of 90 degrees. From him on the wall make marks every half a meter. On the opposite wall, the procedure is repeated, using for accuracy the laser level. Take the Chocline and fill it between the line marks right on the ceiling. So you will mark out the places for fastening the hangers, to which the ceiling profile will be fixed.

What consumables are required?

In order not to get trapped in the very middle of the work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the list of necessary consumables that you will often need for installing a false ceiling:

• UD-profiles (PNP 27x28). The name stands for "ceiling guide profile".
• CD-profiles (PP 60х27). This is an ordinary longitudinal profile.
• "Krabiki". Clamps for connecting the elements of the frame with each other.
• Suspensions for hanging the profile to the "native" ceiling cover with their subsequent alignment.
• Screws for metal 3,5х11 or 3,5х9, intended for connection of details of a skeleton among themselves.
• Self-tapping screws for metal 6x60, equipped with anchor dowels. It is necessary to fix the frame elements directly to the ceiling.
• Self-cutters MN25, with which the gypsum board is screwed to profiles.

And further. In the event that you make a figured ceiling from plasterboard in a corridor or other room that is characterized by increased noise, it is strongly advised to provide for the purchase of a noise-insulating material!

Mounting of the first level skeleton

We fix the UD profile along the perimeter. We make sure that its lower part passes strictly along the line you have broken off. If it turns out that there are no holes for fasteners in the profile you bought, we drill them ourselves (again, every half a meter). Fastening is best done with plastic dowels and screws, as only they are able to provide maximum strength on the concrete surface (the most common option). It is best to use dowels with a diameter of about 6 mm.

Profile fixing

Now it is required to screw the U-shaped suspensions to the ceiling, using for orientation the lines marked by you in advance. It is desirable to use dowels all the same. Important! Between the suspensions themselves, it is desirable to maintain a distance not exceeding 60 cm. This is especially important if you are assembling a figured ceiling from plasterboard in the kitchen.

The fact is that in this room on the ceiling there is often a big load: moist air, attachments, and so on. We do not recommend saving on consumables in such a responsible business!

A little about the kitchen

Helpful advice. The flared dowels are suitable for hangers, but if there were not any such in the store, it is perfectly permissible to use shock mounts, simply by taking more suitable screws for them. This is especially important in the case when you make a figured ceiling from plasterboard in the kitchen. Photos do not convey all the nuances, but you just have to keep one thing in mind.

The fact is that the air in this room is almost always characterized by high humidity. Drywall can become wet with time and increase its weight several times. If the mounts are weak, all the ceiling coating in one far from perfect day can simply collapse on your head.

Why do we recommend using flared dowels? The fact is that in concrete ceilings of domestic houses you will inevitably come across various emptiness. The hat of such fasteners will not allow them to fail in them, providing the most reliable, quality fastening.

One more thing. It is very important when screwing suspensions to do this, using not external "ears", but internal holes, since the ears under the weight of the ceiling will inevitably delay, and quite significantly. All of your figured ceiling from plasterboard, over the installation of which it was necessary so scrupulously and responsibly to work, there and then it will be completely skewed.

Installation of CD-profiles

Once you are finished with the hangers, measure out the required length of the CD profiles and carefully insert them into the UD mounts, which you have previously secured around the perimeter of the room. To put them as accurately as possible, you can use the usual thread.

Tighten it exactly across the CD, gently fixing the ends of the twine to the profiles of the UD. To slightly hang down the profiles do not pull the thread, fix them slightly, putting the tips of the suspensions under them. By the way, the thread can then be removed, since it is still useful when installing the second level of the ceiling.

Carefully "calibrate" the profiles for the level of twine, along the way fixing them with the help of small screws. Important! Before you begin to fix the sheets of drywall, be sure to verify the thoroughness of their work. In addition, it does not hurt to immediately post wiring for recessed luminaires, to stretch the cable of the phone, bonded TV and the Internet. The cavities, which form a figured ceiling from gypsum board, are ideal for this.

We fasten drywall

Standard sheet GVL has a length of exactly 250 mm. Note! Each sheet should lie on the profile of the CD so as to close it exactly one-half. The remaining space will be used to fasten the next sheet of GVL. Note that this material is not very easy, and therefore before work, it is strongly advised to find one or two assistants.

So, we begin to make a figured ceiling from gypsum board. Photos of similar design solutions are available in this article, so before you start working with them you can get acquainted with them and come up with your own version, which is distinguished by its great variety and originality.

How to do the first level?

Of course, you should first mark out the figures of the future ceiling. This is done with the help of an ordinary pencil. Immediately outline the level on the wall to which the second tier of your ceiling will drop. You screw the UD profile. If you need to flex it curly, to simplify the process, simply cut the material every five centimeters.

You should know that you need to cut the profile from the lateral and outer side of the direction, along which the bend of the surface will go. That's how you need to do the first level by assembling a figured ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Photos from the article will help you understand some of the nuances of the work.

After this, you can begin to assemble the frame, fastening it together with self-tapping screws of the appropriate type. After that, carefully fasten the sheets of GVL. Try to direct the screws strictly vertically, because otherwise the surface of the sheets will inevitably be dying! As we already said above, you can pull the same thread to use it to achieve the most accurate alignment.

The second figure level

Since it is difficult to fasten pieces of gypsum board in places of twisting lines, we recommend cutting it in small pieces, which are much easier to bend, giving them the required shape, and fastening. At this stage installation of figured ceilings from plasterboard is extremely important to keep as carefully and not to hurry, because otherwise you risk ruining the results of your work.

If in some places the profiles hang more than half a meter, they must be additionally secured with hangers. Only then they can be gently sewed pieces of GWL, constantly cutting off excess parts with an ordinary hacksaw. Vertical bands of gypsum board (before they are bent) should be cut from the outside of the bend. As soon as this work is done, you can start filling the ceiling.

If you do not have enough experience in installing suspended ceilings from gypsum board, it is strongly advised to first completely assemble the frame, and only then to cover both levels with sheets of GVL. So much easier to avoid mistakes. That's how pendant curly ceilings made of plasterboard are made.