Machine Seam: classification and execution technology

In the sewing industry, machine stitches and seams are far from being the last. On how well the seamstress knows them and knows how to do exactly, the appearance of the whole product depends. But in order to know them well, it is necessary to understand the classification and differences in the technology of execution.

Seam Varieties

Depending on the purpose of the work, the features of the product and the quality of the fabric, different assembly technologies are chosen. According to the classification, machine stitches can be joint, edge and decorative-finishing. They are applicable to different parts of the product.

Connecting seams collect the product into a single unit. This is the basis on which the garment industry is held. Without these seams, it is impossible to do anything at all.

The edges are designed to give the free ends of the product a complete, neat appearance. Such a machine seam serves not only as a decorative element, but also as a protection against rapid wear.

Finishing seams do not carry any special constructive functions. They, rather, serve as an additional decoration than a way to strengthen the integrity of the product.

Despite the fact that there are a lot of stitches, to all of them there are certain requirements. First of all, this is an absolute evenness of the line. Even if the needle writes zigzags or patterns, the center line should remain straight and do not jump from side to side.

And the second is the accuracy of execution. You can not scribble the product where you want. The designer in advance calculated the place where this is done. Deviation from the intended leads to the deterioration of the finished product.

Stitches connecting parts together

Any classification of machine seams begins with connecting. They are distinguished by several species. Although, to be honest, all these varieties are built on 2-3 main seams.

The most important - a stitch. 80% of all products are connected to them. Obtach suture is a variant of the previous one, intended for stitching products in places where they are susceptible to the greatest friction

Double stitching seam is used in linen, especially bedding. It has high wear resistance and is fairly simple to perform. The sewing seam can also be called decorative, since it does not have a pronounced facial and reverse side. The patch joint is used where the flaps need to overlap. It is performed on the front side of the product.

All other machine seams, whose schemes are known to professional seamstresses - are complicated variants of the above. Their expediency is justified only in individual cases, and ignorance of the technology of their implementation does not make the master less skillful.

Main joints

Any woman who can at least once sit down at the sewing machine can make a stitching machine stitch. It is done this way: two details are folded face inward and are stitched with an ordinary stitch. At this point, the notion of "seam width" appears. This is the distance from the edge of the product to the place where the line passes. Under normal conditions, it is 0.5-1 cm, but depending on the fabric and the product itself, it can be either thicker or thinner.

Seam allowances should be made at the time of the cut, otherwise the size of the product will be slightly smaller than originally planned.

Obtach suture is a variant of a stitch. After the two parts are connected with a stitch seam, they are turned out so that the bend point is exactly at the place where the line passes. Thus make cuffs, pockets, hoods. At the same time, the width of the fillet weld is much smaller. It is 0.3-0.4 cm.

Knowing only these two seams, you can already make the majority of garments.

Pivoting seam

In practice, the performance of machine seams can be more complicated. A double pivot stitch is not the most difficult, but will require some skill to be perfect.

To begin with, we add two parts with the wrong sides to each other. We make an ordinary stitch seam up to a width of 0.5 cm, then we bend the product and from the wrong side make the same stitch, but 1 mm further than it was in the previous stage. Thus, the edges of the sewn parts are obtained hidden in a secure pocket made of fabric.

Use this double seam primarily in bedding, which is subject to frequent washing, and therefore the load on the free edges is much larger than that of a conventional product.

Also it can be found on children's clothes, but on the front side. In this way, the scars are removed from the inside and the inaccurate edges are hidden.

Stitching seam

It is proved that machine joints can be decorative. An example of this is the French (jeans) seam. The second name he received due to frequent use in jeans trousers. As you know, the internal seam of this product should be very strong and reliable.

The technology of its implementation is not so simple, but not the most difficult. It all starts with the fact that the joined parts are folded unevenly relative to the edge. The lower part should protrude approximately 7 mm. Leaving 7-8 mm from the top edge, the details are stitched. After that, the bottom edge is wrapped up to the seam and covered with the top piece. The entire construction is first spread on one side, then on the other.

If you understand, this seam is a kind of reversal. Only here the line is made in such a way that all creases remain in the same plane with the product.

Less popular joints

The connecting machine seams, the schemes of which we have discussed above, are the most popular. They are used in most cases. But there are no less interesting and other types of seams.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the overhead seam. It borders on the decorative and finishing, but still serves to connect the two parts. It is performed on the front side. There are two types: with a hidden edge and with a free edge. On the front side of the product, face up, is attached the part to be sewn. If you first flash through or smooth the edges, they will be closed.

This way they sew pockets, coquets and decorative patches.

The cut-off stitch is a decorative variant of a stitch. After the product is sewn, the edges of the seam are smoothed and streaked strictly parallel to the main seam, at the same distance from it.

Finishing the edges of the product

Further classification of machine seams refers to the so-called marginal. Their main task is to design the free edge of the product, such as the skirt of the skirt, the bottom of the trousers or the neckline. On how accurately and reliably it will be done, depends on the appearance of the product, and its durability.

There are two main types: subacute and edging. For the padding are not used additional rags of fabric. The work is conducted with a free edge. For edging, it is necessary to have a cant, which is made from the same fabric as the main product, or from other flaps. It depends only on the original idea of the designer.

Leaving the edge of the product without any treatment is impractical, because any fabric will crumble and dissolve, which will negatively affect the appearance of clothes and linen.

The basic machine seams edge

The cutting of a product is a very important matter. It is produced by bending the fabric to the wrong side. There are several types of ancillary sutures. If you simply bend the fabric and stitch it at a distance of about 0.5 cm from the bend, we get a seam with an open edge. It looks good on the hem of the skirt and dress, because it is light and non-removable. But a free edge is still better to overtake beforehand in order to avoid shedding.

The hidden edge is done in the following way. The fabric is turned inwards, about 0.5 cm, and then again, but by 1-1.5 cm. The stitch is made from the wrong side with a seam width of about 1-2 mm. This guarantees the safety of the edges.

And the last way of the padding is a double seam. It is performed in the same way as the previous one, but the stitch is made on the side of both bends. As a result, you get a strip on the edge, bounded by two lines. This method is most often used in jeans and coarse pants. Just make a pocket for inserting an elastic band.

Using Edges

Edging a product is more of a decorative move than a practical need. It is more reasonable to use stitches, but they do not always justify their aesthetic appearance and the way the fabric treated in this way behaves.

Edging is used on knitwear, as well as in light blouses to give them greater volatility.

The technology of making machine seams by the method of edging refers to the category of complex ones. The reason for this - the control of three elements at the same time, which need to be connected perfectly with each other. In this case, the edge itself needs to hide its edges inside the finish.

To facilitate the task, to begin with, on the edging flap, the edges are smoothed out so that they are securely held from the wrong side. Then it is necessary to sweep all parts of the product and only then proceed to the line. The width of the seam when edging is 0.1-0.2 cm, this requires a certain skill from the seamstress.

Decorative stitches

Modern sewing machines can produce more than one machine stitch, and several dozen. This means that in places where the line is noticeable, it is not necessary to make it a straight line. If it is appropriate, you can start a zigzag, wave or crescents. This will make the outer side of the clothes more unusual and attractive.

Also, decorative stitches can be used as elements of simple embroidery. To do this, you can practice a little to understand exactly how a particular fabric behaves with this kind of machine stitch. A few minutes of exercises will allow you to get a completely unusual result, because it will already be some kind of author's technique of embroidery by an ordinary sewing machine.

Decorative machine stitch

The most important thing you need to know: decorative and finishing seams are always noticeable. Therefore, if you do them, then only one hundred percent qualitatively.

You can apply them anywhere: make a fake pocket or sew a zipper that opens nothing, stitch the length and breadth of the product, creating a patchwork effect or quilting.

The main thing is not to be afraid to experiment and approximately to imagine what result will be given this or that additional line on the finished blouse or trousers.