Machine seams: technology and types. Machine seams: connecting, edge

Sewing clothes by hand has long been not profitable. With the help of a sewing machine, this happens faster and better. And different types of machine stitches make it possible to make the product as durable as possible. It well tolerates not only long-term operation, but also frequent washing. The main thing is to know when to sew.

Classification of seams

Even at school, children learn a variety of machine stitches. Grade 7 even understands in practice how to perform them with a sewing machine.

All seams are divided into three types: connecting, edge and finishing. Joints are designed to hold together different parts of the future product. Such machine stitches are considered basic. There are, of course, among them and quite unusual, but they are used extremely rarely.

Edge seams are designed to decorate the edges of the product, so that they do not fray and do not spoil the appearance. They are just as important as the connecting ones. Although there are some techniques, when the edges are not sheathed. But these are special cases.

Finishing seams rarely connect parts of the product or decorate its edges. They are designed to decorate and create unusual effects. Finishing machine stitches are somewhere in between the embroidery and the usual seam.

Variety of joints

In the special literature, the terminology of machine stitches is quite extensive, and sometimes even slightly synonymous. One and the same seam can have several names, but the technology of its execution does not change from this.

Tailors distinguish such basic types of joints:

• Static and obtachnoy are used to simply connect two pieces of fabric.
• A double stitching seam is appropriate in bed linens and baby clothes. He has not such a rough scar, and the edges of the fabric, processed in this way, do not fray.
• Boring seam is used in those places where the borders of the connection of the fabric must be hidden as much as possible.
• The stitching seam has two options. Most often he meets on jeans clothes. Therefore, its second name is jeans.
• An alignment seam is necessary in order to secure the two parts as tightly as possible in the place where the maximum load is applied to them.

As you can see, machine seams are very diverse, and they are used for specific tasks. In order for them to have maximum efficiency, it is necessary to properly observe the technology for their implementation.

Static and flanged seams

The main machine stitches, which connect the details of garments - stale and obtachnye. In fact, these are variants of a single seam applied for different purposes.

The stitching suture is based on the thread junction line. In this case, the width of the seam itself depends directly on the quality and quality of the fabric, as well as on the use of the product. The width is the distance from the edge of the part to the line.

Its technology looks like this: the details of the product are folded to each other face-to-face and are stitched at a certain distance from the edge. Then the sections can be ironed, that is, they can be spread out on different sides and smoothed with an iron, or ironed in one direction or on an edge.

For collars, knuckles, valves of pockets and cuffs, it is more appropriate to use a stitched seam. First, the product is streaked with a stitch. Then, on the front side, it is necessary to sweep out the product so that a small edging is obtained - a width of 1-2 mm. But this is not an axiom. For example, a suture seam can be up to 8 mm if it is a crumbling cloth. These are the types of machine seam, which are the main for tailors.

Denim seam

This is a very strong and reliable seam. Everyone saw him who has jeans at home. And they are at all. In any manual you will find different types of machine stitches, the table of which always contains several varieties of French (jeans). Its advantage is also in the fact that it looks equally beautiful both from the front side and from the wrong side.

The technology of its manufacture is understandable and relatively simple. We put the two parts face down inside. In this case, the bottom should protrude about 1 cm from under the top. We spend the details among themselves at a distance of about 7 mm from the edge of the top. The first stage of work on the seam is completed.

The lower section of the product must be bent to the very line and covered with a top layer of fabric. Turning the product over to the other side, we spread the crease at a distance of 1-2 mm from its edge on both sides. We will have a fold with two parallel lines that look the same from the front side, and from the wrong side.

Other connecting machine seams

Overhead seams are widely used when connecting pockets or coquette with the product. They have an average degree of strength. At the same time, seamstresses need a high level of skill, since an uneven line will spoil the appearance of the product.

This seam is of two types: with an open and closed edge. For a closed edge, the part is pre-ironed and swept to make it easier to work with. The technology of the seam is simple. At a predetermined location, the necessary detail is superimposed and sewn with a conventional or decorative stitch. Sewing place is well smoothed.

The misalignment seam refers to connective-decorative. It is performed on the basis of a stitch. Its width should be slightly larger, since from the wrong side the seam edges are smoothed and stitched parallel to the main one. Distance at the same time can be any. The main thing is to observe two most important conditions:

1) the seams must be strictly parallel with respect to the middle;

2) the distance from the central seam to the side seam should be ideally the same.

Otherwise, the entire decorative effect will disappear, and only the sloppy product will be.

Ways to finish the edges

It is important for any product to properly trim its edges. For industrial purposes and for professional tailors, there is an overlock for these purposes. This machine allows you to sew the edge so that it will never crumble. But outwardly it does not look very neat. Therefore, the visible edges provide additional processing.

For this purpose, both the bending of the fabric and its fringing are used. It depends on the type and structure of the material with which the master works. Also, the performance characteristics impose their own characteristics on the processing of the edges.

Most often use a variety of stitches in the hem and edging machine stitches. Grade 7 in schools deals with the technology of the main ones. Therefore, each woman is roughly aware of how they are performed and when they are best used.

Sometimes, to give a more decorative effect, you can combine them with finishing seams or decorative stitches.

Stitches in a hem

The most common types of machine seams for finishing the edge of the product are the various seams in the hem. Let's start with the simplest - with an open edge. Take the product and iron its edges on the wrong side. After that, we sew with a usual or decorative stitch at a distance of 5-7 mm from the bend. If we are dealing with a crumbling cloth, then it is better to first overtake it. This type of seam is used to not weight the bottom of the product. But the edge is always prone to fraying.

A double seam allows you to hide the unprocessed edge inward. To do this, first smooth the edge in the direction of the wrong side, and then fold and again iron, hiding the edge inside. After that, we sew the seam in such a way as to stitch both layers together. This seam is more reliable, but also voluminous at the same time, which is not very good for light products.

Another option is to fold - the double seam is extracted twice, 2-3 millimeters from the point of the lower bend, and the same distance is receding from the upper inner fold. This type of seam is found mostly in pants and jeans, which are most prone to wear.

Edge Seams

For the neck and the bottom of the sleeves in blouses, we need a fundamentally different technology. Machine seams here should be light and with minimal scars, so as not to rub the skin. In such cases, edging seams are used.

It is rather difficult to execute them without preliminary planning, as seamstresses have to follow three edges. In this case, the edge is folded inward, which significantly complicates the process.

Kant - this is a flap of fabric, which closes the outer edge of the product. It is selected so long that it is enough for the finish around the perimeter. On both sides the fringing flap is smoothed in the direction of the wrong side. Further, it refers to the product and is as close to the edge as possible.

A slightly complicated version is the preliminary assembly of the edge of the product in the folds. In such cases, edging is simply necessary in order to add longevity to the product. But it is much more difficult to stitch it up so that the folds are uniform.

Decorative seams

Sewing a product is not a problem. It is much harder to make it beautiful, elegant and fashionable. For these purposes, there are different types of machine stitches. The table of decorative stitches always comes complete with a sewing machine. Their use will already significantly revitalize the product. But you can resort to more professional ways. To do this, you need to show a little imagination and sewing skill.

In fact, all decorative and finishing joints are based on connecting and edge joints. Just in their performance are used not entirely specific for them receptions. Which ones, we will consider below.

Complicated cut

We all know that, for example, a blouse consists of two front shelves and a backrest. In this there is nothing particularly decorative. Pure classics and boredom. But the same shelves can be cut out of two or more parts, and for their connection to use different types of machine stitches, the schemes of which we have considered above.

Add a little "hooliganism" in the cuffs. We sew them with an overhead seam, and even a few flaps. At the same time, the edges of the latter are slightly torn, as if they are small patches. Of course, such a method will only come with a natural cloth, which practically does not crumble. But this shows the main principle of finishing seams - do not be afraid to experiment.

Sewing machines

To perform the main types of machine stitches, a household sewing machine is sufficient. In addition, in the set with modern models often there are additional paws and attachments that facilitate this process. Some of them even allow you to perform small embroideries, which is important in the process of decorating products.

At the same time, some skilled workers say that no modern model can match the classic Soviet machines. This indicates that for the qualitative work there is enough skill and a little professional intuition.