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Climbing Elbrus: reviews of tourists. Climbing Elbrus for beginners: reviews

The development of tourism in our time has reached the level that the only forbidden place for travelers is space, and even then for a short while.

If even 15-20 years ago conquering the peaks belonged to the extreme sport, today climbing to Elbrus (reviews of beginning tourists talk about it) is an extreme kind of rest, which can be bought at an ordinary travel agency.

Elbrus

Emerged at the end of the Neogene period during the rise of the Caucasian range, Elbrus was so powerful a volcano that the consequences of its ancient eruptions today scientists find hundreds of kilometers from it.

The activity of the volcano ceased 2500 years ago, but Elbrus, reviews of the strength and power of which remained in local legends and fairy tales, as early as the 16th century were depicted on maps in the form of a cone with fire.

One of the highest extinct volcanoes of the planet began to conquer as early as the beginning of the 19th century. The Russian expedition, consisting of scientists and military, in 1829, tried to conquer Elbrus and reached even a height of 4800 m, as evidenced by the inscription on the stone with the cross cut on it by the St. George Cross. But to conquer the summit was able only their guide Kabardian, since he was more adapted to sparse high-mountain air.

Evidence of the conquest of Elbrus were memorable slabs, which recorded this event, but on this conquest of the two-headed peaks the mountains did not stop. In 1874 the English mountain climbers conquered the western peak. Both peaks, with the exact application of the topography of the mountain to the map, were investigated by the Russian topographer Pastukhov, in honor of which the rocks at the level of 4700 meters were named.

Since that time, mountaineering equipment has been improved and the number of those who conquered the mountain has increased. Climbing Elbrus (reviews of mountaineers of the 20th century say this) was a real test of strength, endurance and self-control. Today every tourist can climb an extinct volcano without special preparation. It should be remembered that Elbrus annually takes dozens of lives of those who were careless or too self-confident.

Weather on Elbrus

The climate on Elbrus is more similar to the Arctic, since the average temperature of the hottest month reaches here +8 degrees Celsius, and the most severe weather conditions is February.

Frequent precipitation in the form of snow and numerous changes in the weather have created grief for the glory of the "directing wind", as in the translation from the Nogai dialect the name Elbrus sounds.

Mountaineers of the 19th and 20th centuries had to rely on luck, going to the ascent. Today, modern meteorological equipment allows you to know in advance when you can go to conquer Elbrus. The reviews of many mountain climbers say that knowing about the weather in advance often saves a life.

For the convenience of climbers, at different mountain heights, transshipment bases have been established, the main purpose of which is to serve as a shelter in bad weather and to be acclimatized before climbing. The latter is a prerequisite, since Elbrus severely refers to those who neglect safety.

Depending on which slope to start lifting, depends on its complexity.

Elbrus - tourist area

The climb to Elbrus (reviews to date about this numerous) has become a kind of tourist rest relatively recently. The development of infrastructure in the form of a cable car, hotels and transshipment bases has led to the attraction of tourists from all over the world.

For example, Mount Cheget (3650 m) is a ski resort with the world's most difficult highway. Anyone who wants to challenge the mountain, come here to test their strength. In a season when snowboarders get on the Elbrus skiing (reviews say that this is November), there are 4 lifts and 3 cable car lines missing for quick delivery to everyone. Thanks to them, skiers can start descent from a height of 3070 m above sea level, which is not easy for beginners, since a slow rise and a quick descent can affect the general state of health in the form of dizziness and nausea.

In existing hotels and nearby cafes you can relax between the descents and gain strength by tasting local cuisine. Also from here you can take the start on Elbrus. The reviews of climbers show that the ski lifts from the Azu clearing, which can be reached from the glade by Cheget on the minibus or on foot (6 km), significantly shorten the time for climbing the mountain.

Bases for trekking on the mountain itself are not suitable for long stays. Their purpose is to give people the opportunity to pass acclimatization, making an ascent from one base to another, in order to transfer the ascent to Elbrus easier. Reviews of tourists say that there is a minimum of conditions sufficient to gain strength.

Elbrus for Beginners

The development of tourist business in the mountains gave rise to a number of new specialties, one of which was the profession of a guide, or, as they said in the old days, a guide.

Previously, the conductor undertook to deliver travelers to their destination. Climbing Elbrus for beginners (reviews of beginners especially indicate the importance of this) "brought out" a new generation of professionals whose main function was not only accompaniment, but also training inexperienced climbers.

As a rule, experienced climbers give recommendations to newcomers who can be found on the Internet, but who reads them? Often tourists believe that if a tour operator makes an attractive offer in the form of conquering the peaks, then under the white handles the mountains will be brought up. In fact, the agency that sold the tour does not care at all whether the client will get the climb, or not. The rest, as they say, is the business of guides.

Climbing Elbrus for beginners (reviews of all "dummies" are confirmed) begins at home:

  • First, you need at least some physical preparation, so that from an unusual load the legs can move at the right pace. Enough for 3-4 weeks before the trip to increase pressure on the legs in the form of small stretch marks, running, climbing and descending the stairs. Let the muscles heal at home, then it will be easier to conquer Elbrus. Reviews of newcomers that they have experienced exorbitant loads that have spoiled all the joy of climbing are not uncommon on the Internet.
  • Secondly, good equipment is required. It's good, not expensive. The price in this case is not always quality. Some things can be rented on site, but the shoes should only be taken and handled.
  • Third, it is important to know about your health before climbing the mountains. If a person does not go through acclimatization due to blood pressure problems or for some other reason, it is better to conquer less high peaks than Elbrus. Rest (feedback about this also is) on one of the bases will be interesting, but safe.
  • Fourth, always listen to your guide. He is a professional climber, therefore his recommendations and even orders are not discussed.

It is important for a beginner to understand that when buying a tour to Elbrus, he pays only for an attempt that can turn into anything, therefore, when going on the road, one should take luck with him. Those who are accustomed to rest in comfort, will not approach the excursion to Elbrus. Reviews of the difficulties of climbing and physical activity are confirmed.

Ascent from the west

This mountain can be climbed from different directions of the world, but not all of them are suitable for beginners. For example, climbing from the west is suitable only for climbers with great experience, since here the way is blocked by powerful glaciers or rocks, which require great skill for a difficult climb.

The base camp on the western side is on a clearing at an altitude of 2670 m (Djili-Su). Acclimatization will take a day, which can be spent with advantage, visiting medical sources.

The next stage is to climb to the next camp (3,500 m) with a part of things to pass a new stage of acclimatization. The next day you can relocate to it with other things. Camp No. 2 is located on the Bituk Tyubu glacier (its moraine). At this stage, an intermediate altitude of 3900 m is taken, on which equipment can be left.

The third camp is at an altitude of 4200 m. Here you can spend a day of rest before sending to the last base point. An extra day of acclimatization will help an unprepared person restore strength and get used to oxygen starvation.

The fourth base is at an altitude of 4600 m, after which there is already an ascent to Elbrus. The mountain (the reviews of climbers say this) is becoming less impregnable, if the preparatory work was done correctly.

The ascent itself is not dangerous, although the snow slope has some steepness. If the body has adapted to rarefied oxygen, then the path in good weather will not be difficult and dangerous.

Ascent from the East

From this side you can ascend to the eastern peak of the mountain, which has a height of 5,621 m. Here you have to put the base camps on your own, if the climber is a beginner, then an experienced guide will be required, since this side of the mountain does not provide comfortable living conditions.

The first camp for adaptation and spending the night is set at an altitude of 2400 m. The next ascent with "digging" is Irik-Chat pass (3667 m), near which tents are placed. On the glacier, training is conducted, after which the climb to the next level - 4000 meters - and tents for overnight stays are installed.

The assault camp is based at an altitude of 4500 m. After a rest, there are training sessions and a test run of 5000 m. After the adaptation period, the climb to the top begins and then descends to the base camp.

This, perhaps, is the most "inhospitable" side of Elbrus.

Ascent from the south

The southern route is the most popular with tourist companies and the most equipped for adaptation of all. From this side, you can even conquer Elbrus in winter. The feedback of those who did this suggests that this requires a remarkable physical strength and a willingness to resist frosts to -45 degrees with a piercing wind.

The first acclimatization is carried out at an altitude of 2,200 m at the Azu camp site. From here you can comfortably reach the next base on the cable car, which ends at an altitude of 2950 m at the Stary Krugozor station.

Crossing to another line of the road, you can climb to the next point for adaptation - the station "Mir" (3500 m). It is desirable for beginners not to hurry and to pass acclimatization gradually, giving each height at least a day.

From the station "Mir" there is a chairlift "to the shelter" Barrels "(3750 m). It is in this camp that the main adaptation takes place. If you go on a voucher, then the order of ascent is approximately this:

  • On the first day in the "Barrels" an ordinary walk, familiarity with the surroundings and rest.
  • The second day - a trip to "Shelter 11" at a height of 4050 m. The ascent goes at an angle of 10 degrees and takes about 2 hours, since the light should gradually adapt to the altitude. Descent is carried out in 20 minutes.
  • The third day is the ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks (4600), if health and weather permit. The climb is slow, 3-4 hours, near the rocks - a halt for tea, and then descent in 1.5-2 hours.
  • The next 1-2 days - either climbing, or additional acclimatization. The exit is usually 2-3 o'clock in the morning under the light of flashlights, to try to meet the dawn on top.

The weather on Elbrus is changeable, so you should be prepared in advance, that in the middle of the road, you may have to turn back. The mountains do not forgive recklessness.

Climbing from the north

The conquest of Elbrus began at one time from its northern side. Unlike the comfortable south side with its hotels and ski lifts, here all the way will have to pass by yourself. The first base for acclimatization is the huts "Oleinikov" and "Roshchina" or the camp "Lakkolit".

Adaptation begins with an ascent to the Lenz rocks (4,700 m), here you also have training. Climbing begins after full acclimatization, rest and spending the night. There will be no more intermediate parking to the summit. From the north most often climb to the eastern, smaller peak, as it is closer. An experienced guide can lead the group to the western peak, although it is easier to do this from the southern slope.

For those who like extreme sports, the season of skiing and snowboarding opens Elbrus in November. Reviews about these descents are most admired. The weather at this time usually pleases its still relative warmth and already fallen snow.

Often you can meet climbing to the top of tourists and descending down the skiers. Elbrus also holds competitions for the fastest climb to the top. The record holder from Kazakhstan with its indicator is 3 hours 55 minutes. From the Azau meadow (2400 m) to the western peak (5642 m) has not been overtaken by anyone. To learn how to conquer the mountains, it takes years of training and knowledge of safety rules.

Safety regulations

When people come to Elbrus on a tourist voucher, they should clearly understand that the one who has the experience of climbing to the top is the main one, therefore submission to the person responsible for safety must be unquestioning.

Before going out even for acclimatization, it is mandatory:

  • Checking the equipment. It must be whole, dry and secure. Be sure to have a face cream and lip balm, as well as a mask or black glasses.
  • Route check, reconciliation of time, connection and first-aid kit.
  • Be sure to have a thermos with hot tea and light food - sandwiches, bars or fruit.

The campaign does not allow members of the group who have not been registered in the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia. This necessity is called for the possibility of conducting rescue and search work for them, if the group has not returned.

New Year's Elbrus

Come to Elbrus on New Year's Eve (reviews about this tour are the most enthusiastic) - this means to combine the meeting of the best holiday in the year with the opportunity to conquer the summit.

The program of the New Year's tour does not allow you to relax, because it requires both a gradual acclimatization, and the development of skills to walk with "cats" and trekking sticks. An important role is played by teaching the proper packing of the backpack, as the higher the rise, the harder it will seem.

The same applies to the use of an ice ax, knitting knots and walking in a bundle. It often happens that people once passed in a bunch when climbing to the top of the mountain, become friends for life. The trainers take preparations for the group very seriously, as in the winter Elbrus can present surprises with the weather, icing and winds.

The training of insurance skills on ice and stop slip, both in the group and independently. The adaptation and development of necessary skills takes 5-6 days. When buying a trip to the mountains, it should be understood that the minimum amount of time required for an ascent is 8-10 days. To conquer Elbrus, there are no weekend tours. Nobody gives guarantees that there will be an upswing at all, the weather in these parts is extremely unpredictable.

But if you listen to the instructor, follow all his recommendations, take the course of a young "climber" and catch luck, then this New Year's tour will be the most unforgettable and amazing adventure in life.

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