Rocks of Pastukhov: description

Mount Elbrus is the highest not only in the Caucasus, but also in Europe. It is the cone of an extinct volcano with two peaks, whose height is 5642 meters (western peak) and 5,621 meters (eastern peak). Between them at an altitude of 5325 meters is a deep saddle.

Climbing Elbrus attracts the attention of not only domestic climbers. To test yourself and admire the views that open from the peaks, climbers come from near and far abroad.

Ascent routes

The danger of climbing is represented by snow-covered cracks in glaciers, strong wind, low temperatures and lack of oxygen when climbing to a height.

You can conquer the summit from the north. During the climb, there are magnificent views of snow-covered mountain ranges among the green glades. On the northern slopes there are no lifts, asphalted roads, shelters and cafes, so climbers need to rely only on their own strength.

The ascent to Elbrus from the west is considered the most extreme. Here, too, there are no lifts, snowmobiles, which bring climbers to the desired height, there is no infrastructure. On the route there are many steep cliffs and glaciers, so only experienced mountain climbers go here. When climbing to the summit from the east from the pass Irik-Chat (height 3667 m) a beautiful view opens on the eastern peak. Here, on the glacier, the technique of moving on ice is worked out, the work with rope and methods of insurance is taught.

Climb to the top from the south

To climb the Elbrus laid more than two hundred routes, calculated both for experienced climbers, and for beginners. Climbing to the top from the southern slopes is popular among beginners alpinists. It starts from the base Azau (height 2200 meters). Here the first acclimatization to the mountain conditions takes place. Then the path leads to the high-altitude shelter "Barrels", the rocks of Pastukhov, After which the ascent to the top of Elbrus begins.

Experienced climbers can independently conquer the mountain, and people who do not have experience, organize groups and climb as escorted by a guide. Due to the difficult weather conditions on Elbrus, it is better to climb in the summer months and in autumn not later than October.

What is the "Pastukhov Rocks"

This is a group of rocks located on the southern slope of Elbrus. The stone ridge was named after the Russian mountaineer and military topographer Andrei Pastukhov, who studied the Caucasus Mountains. When climbing to a high altitude, a person must undergo acclimatization and get used to the conditions of oxygen shortage high in the mountains.

According to the established tradition, Pastukhov Rocks, whose altitude varies from 4,600 to 4,800 meters, serve as a place for acclimatization before climbing to the top of Elbrus. Here the group sleeps in tents. Insufficiently prepared for climbing to the top, people can climb to the rocks on the ratrake (special transport for glacier travel) and admire the mountain scenery, and then make a descent on a snowboard or on skis.

Some information about Andrei Pastukhov

Pastukhov Andrew was born in 1858 in the Kharkov province. He graduated from the military gymnasium in St. Petersburg, then was sent to the Corps of military topographers, later was assigned to the Caucasian Military District. He compiled maps of mountain ranges in Dagestan, and in 1889 conquered the eastern peak of Kazbek from the north. Before him, no one did such an ascension.

A year later, the Russian climber climbed for the first time to the western peak of Elbrus without guides. In this campaign he made a map of glaciers and collected a large collection of mountain minerals. During 1890, the topographer made several ascents to the mountains, during which he laid various routes. Only in 1896 he makes a second ascent to the eastern peak. During this ascent, the group that accompanied him spent the night on a rock ridge, after which the name of Pastukhov's rock was fixed behind it.

Classic climb route

The classical route of the ascent to Elbrus refers to the complexity of 2A. Any physically healthy person with experience of walking in the mountains can make a lift. For the route to take requires equipment and warm clothes, because the weather on Elbrus unpredictable.

After a little acclimatization at the station "Azau" group with all the equipment on the cable car is raised to a height of 3,800 meters to the shelter "Barrels". Here are insulated trailers, designed to stay on the basis of 50 people, as well as 2 kitchens and a dining room. There is electric heating in the shelter. To adapt to the finding in the mountains, on the "Barrels" you need to spend 2-3 nights.

After that, climbers move to the high-altitude "Shelter of eleven" and make from there a training expedition to the rocks of Pastukhov. The path passes along the ice floor, covered with snow.

Climbing to the top of Elbrus begins at night. From the shelter to the rocks of Pastukhov, it takes about 2 hours. After 300-400 meters up from the rocks, a direct ascent begins, after which the road turns to the saddle. After an hour of rest in the saddle, you can climb to any summit.

Equipment for climbing Elbrus

To climb the southern slope you need to have with you:

• Woolen or cotton thermal underwear;
• A pair of sets of underwear and warm socks;
• Sleeping bag that can withstand temperatures as low as -5 ° C;
• Thermo mask to protect the face from frostbite or a protective cream;
• A non-inflatable warm jacket with a hood or a windbreak that will withstand a temperature of -2 ° C;
• High-altitude boots with a solid sole and wounds for fastening cats, as well as removable shoes.

In addition, you will need cats, an ice ax, a first aid kit, toiletries, ski poles, warm mittens, a headlamp. Be sure to take a ski cap and sunglasses with ultraviolet filters.

Observance of safety precautions for climbing

Before the ascent, the group must be registered in the search and rescue group of the Ministry of Emergencies of Russia. When registering, indicate the number of people, the time to go to the route, the control time of return, as well as the data of the team leader. During the ascent, you can not leave the route indicated in the ticket.

Be sure to check the availability of equipment, first aid kit and walkie-talkie or other means of communication. Properly selected ammunition and clothing will make the ascent pleasant and do not turn it into a battle for survival.

Particular attention should be given to acclimatization to mountain conditions. It is possible to climb to the top only on 3-4 days after staying on the "Barrels" and a trial trip to the Pastukhov Rocks. Elbrus does not forgive irresponsible preparation. Many people may begin oxygen starvation, severe headaches. Some, due to lack of oxygen, fall into an inadequate state, lose a sense of reality. If this happens, you need to go down.

From products you need to take with them boiled meat, vegetables, dried fruits, nuts. In the shelter before going on the route you can cook borscht, scrambled eggs, chicken cutlets, porridge. Chocolate to eat is not recommended, because it causes nausea and poorly affects the liver.

Descent from the top of Elbrus

Many come to the resort "Elbrus Azau" to go skiing. On the southern slope there are 7 ski runs for experienced skiers and beginners. Their total length is 11 km. In fact, the whole descent is one track about 6 km wide, on which there are no pointers and dividers, and there are protective grids only in some areas.

On the stretch of the ski slope there are several stations, to which skiers are transported lifts. The highest point to which climb the lift - station "Gara-bashi", it is located at an altitude of 3800 meters (slightly above the shelter "Barrels"). Even higher up to the "Shelter of eleven" can be reached by a ratrake. The section between the "Shelter of the eleven" and "Gara-bashi" can only be mastered by experienced skiers. Some extreme skiers come to the Pastukhov Rocks. Skiing in these places is very dangerous, because you can crouch in the cracks or get into an avalanche.

The safety of skiing on the slopes of the Elbrus Azau complex is monitored by the rescue service, especially dangerous places are enclosed by a protective net, video cameras are installed on each stretch of the route. It is better for inexperienced skiers to ride accompanied by an instructor, because wild mountain slopes can be unpredictable.