Car repair: replacing crankshaft oil seal

If a leakage of oil is detected in the machine, and it occurs through the oil seals in the crankshaft, the following should be done first:

• Examine the crankcase ventilation system for clogging;
• Check that there is no clogging of the hoses of the crater ventilation system;
• To eliminate the detected malfunctions.

But it happens that the measures taken are insufficient. Then it is necessary to replace the crankshaft oil seal.

The main sign, indicating the mandatory replacement - when the oil begins to flow through the edge of the stuffing box. The rotating pulley crankshaft splashes it in different directions, smearing and oiling almost the entire front of the engine, as well as the belt on the drive near the gas distribution mechanism. Of course, replacing the stuffing box is not the most difficult thing, but it requires some skill and appropriate tools.

Operating procedure

The crankshaft has an omentum, both front and rear. Their removal and replacement takes place in a certain sequence. Thus, replacing the crankshaft front oil seal consists of the following:

- from the "negative" terminal on the battery the wire is disconnected;

- the position of the piston in the first cylinder is set in the TDC compression stroke;

- on the gas distributing mechanism the drive belt is removed;

- on the crankshaft, a toothed pulley is removed, followed by a remote ring;

- Then the oil pump socket is located . From it, with the aid of a screwdriver, the gland is removed;

- Replacing the crankshaft oil seal is done neatly and with due attention.

It is necessary to examine its working edges well. Edge must be equal, on the surface should not be dents, torn places or excessive thickening of rubber, influx (factory marriage). It must be ensured that the spring on the seal is in a normal, not stretched condition, without damage:

- Before installation, the working edge is lubricated with engine oil;

- the stuffing box is again installed inside the nest, then its working edge should be tucked neatly into its place of the crankshaft, assisting itself with a screwdriver or a stick, only to avoid damaging the rubber, the stuffing box must be "pressed" to the end, until it stops (you can do this by picking a suitable mandrel );

- return to the place all previously removed parts of the mechanism, of course, in the reverse order removal;

- the replacement of the crankshaft oil seal is completed by adjusting the tension of the drive belts at the generator and the air conditioning compressor, and also the pump must be adjusted on the power steering.

Additional Information

At the clutch, the discs can be soiled in the event that the oil seal is leaking from the input shaft on the gearbox or the rear oil seal at the crankshaft. It can be classified by the smell of oils - the smell of the engine is different from the transmission one. An experienced driver or mechanic differentiates them without difficulty. And then it determines which seal has a defect. Another little trick: in the usual puddle, if there is no other water tank near at hand, drip leaking oil. The transmission spreads over the entire water surface, forming a rainbow film. The motor will remain in the form of a drop resembling a grain.

And again about the ventilation system in the crankcase. Replacing the crankshaft oil seal does not help if the cleanliness of the system is broken. Its clogging leads to an increase in the pressure of the crankcase gases. And the oil starts to leak, even if the front oil seal is in order.

Now about the tools. With bare hands to do all the necessary work will not work, as well as one screwdriver. For repair and recovery work, the mechanic or driver may need keys to "10", to "36", a special key designed specifically to tighten the nut on the crankshaft anchor, the screwdriver has already been mentioned. Well, if in the toolbox there is a beard, a mounting blade and a hammer - they too will be involved in the process.