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How to get rid of rust on the car body? Anticorrosion treatment

Owners of used cars face abundant corrosion. The lack of money for repair on the service prompts to understand the question of how to get rid of rust on the car body. It is quite easy to fix a metal fault, the driver must have the skills of a painter and a welder if necessary to replace heavily damaged elements.

The eternal problem of brown spots on the metal

How to get rid of rust on the car body, know all the owners of Soviet models. Long-term operation in aggressive conditions leads to damage to paintwork. Through the microcracks penetrates moisture, causing the appearance of defects. The result of the negative impact is the swollen paint and brown spots.

To prevent rust from forming, anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and thresholds is carried out. However, there is no possibility to process the outside with an effective tool, because the appearance of the body will be lost because of this. The only protection for the metal is the paint coating. Top with wax after washing or polishing. The last measures are saved for a short time, so it is necessary to repeat the procedure every week.

Where to look for defects?

Often, drivers have no time to deal with the health of the car, and eventually, corrosion of the body inevitably appears. Rust is formed in the following places:

  • The wing fenders experience a mechanical impact from sand, gravel, salt, reagents.
  • The bottom of the car try to protect a thick layer of mastic. After many years it remains intact, provided that there were no chips.
  • The hood suffers from small stones on the track. It always contains chipped upper layer.
  • The grooves for water drainage are often clogged, the standing moisture in the doors is a dangerous enemy of metal.
  • The hatch of a gas tank.

How to get rid of rust on the car body, can explain in the service center when repairing or painting works. To date, there are many videos for self-study, where amateurs and professionals tell, show in practice ways to eliminate corrosion. With the use of the manual, even complex manipulations with solutions are easily performed. However, you need to take care of the availability of tools.

What is needed?

The way, telling how to get rid of rust on the car body, is executed by the following materials and tools:

  • A grinding machine or a drill with a nozzle for removing old paint, rust.
  • A compact "bulgarian" is used to cut heavily damaged elements.
  • An abrasive of various granularity is used for grouting putty or eliminating rust.
  • The rubber spatula is responsible for leveling the putty. Before its use, normal body parts are covered with film and paint tape.
  • A small amount of paint, primed in the body color.
  • Alcohol degreases the cleaned surface.
  • The chemical can be used against rust. But it is effective only against small inclusions. Thick layers are removed only mechanically.

If you have to cut a piece of damaged metal, then you need a similar piece to replace. Well, if there is an old similar element, since in the absence of such an additional spend.

Preventive actions

The first main way to protect the metal is anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and thresholds of the new car. In the service, this procedure will cost a lot - from 3000 rubles, depending on the type of work and brand of the car. Independent efforts will cost no more than 300 rubles. This amount includes the cost of the jar of the finished product and a brush.

In the service, the treatment is done with an automatic high-pressure gun. Therefore, this work is more qualitative. In the cavity of the rapids do not get a brush or cans with nozzles. There are craftsmen who pour their own substances there. Cannon fat protects the metal well from moisture and road reagents.

Prevention of emerging spots on the body must be done in a timely manner. In one season rust the size of a match head turns into a ruble coin. Internal changes are almost not noticeable, but the destruction of metal occurs swiftly.

Mechanical removal method

How to remove rust from the body - mechanically or reagents (acids, solvents, cleaners, gasoline or kerosene)? The latter method will require thorough washing of the reaction results. The first method is the most common. It is chosen by all motorists because of its economy.

The rotating nozzle provides a high friction speed with a damaged surface. When lumens or thin areas appear after rust removal, it is recommended not to apply a thick layer of putty, but to weld a new, normal piece. At the discretion of the performer, a fibrous network can be used, in the future it will not allow the cracked layer to crack.

Chemical removal option

In auto parts stores, you can buy an effective remedy for rust in cans, cans or bottles with a dispenser. New corrosion stains are removed immediately after application of the converter. However, old and already inflated defects have to be reduced to several visits, which costs a pretty penny. And sometimes this option becomes meaningless if the entire metal layer is damaged.

Among the drivers with experience known methods, explaining how to remove rust from the car by available means. Among these, mixtures are made based on the following substances:

  • Ammonium and caustic soda;
  • fish fat;
  • formalin;
  • Sulfuric, nitric or hydrochloric acids;
  • Oxalic acid used in bath and toilet detergents;
  • kerosene;
  • orthophosphoric acid.

It is not recommended to leave the cleaned surface in this condition for a long time. It will begin to become rusted in the garage. Before applying the putty or primer, you will need to clean the brown spots again.

Preparation for coloring

It is not recommended to clean blown rust stains. It is better to cut off such a tumor part immediately. Even if it is cleaned, after some time at the same place there will be a similar defect. In case of surface corrosion rust on the machine is removed by chemical reagent. The place of stripping does not require the imposition of putty, immediately spray the primer. Without it, the top layer will not hold.

Cut out parts and welding places will have to hide a decent layer of putty. When adding a hardener to the mixture, the contractor will have no more than 10 minutes to perform the operation. After that, the solution starts to solidify. Apply quickly and smooth immediately. Practice better on the old elements of the body.

After solidification, begin to sand the surface to a glossy state. Constantly palpate the hand smooth transitions. When the appearance of tubercles and dimples, the work should be redone.

Staining

Prepared surface should not have differences, dimples, scratches, scratches. Each defect will be noticeable at the finish color. Therefore, the primer is applied only to the perfectly aligned area. You need the skills of the painter to skilfully make the shades. More often, lovers repaint the element completely. But the color of the new paint may be slightly different, which will be noticeable in sunlight.

The paint is applied indoors without dust. It is desirable that the floor and walls are tiled. This will allow all surfaces to be washed with water jets under pressure before work. If there are particles left on the floor, then they are guaranteed to fall on the painted element. It's easy to check. Apply one coat of colorant to any metal and leave for an hour. Through this time, it will be visible on the plaque, which will wither with the new coating. Polishing will help to correct the situation, but it will take additional efforts.

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