Pattern dress with a sleeve raglan. Building a pattern of Raglan sleeves

For a very long time, thanks to the skill and cunning of tailors who wanted to flatter their customers, a raglan sleeve was invented. He well disguises the shortcomings of the figure and allows the seamstresses to approach creatively the stage of constructing the pattern, since the modeling of the recesses, the different shapes and types of seams, contribute to the development of creative thought.

History

This kind of cut is named after Field Marshal Baron Reglan, who lost his hand while fighting in the army of Napoleon I Bonaparte, at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. For him, a special sleeve model was designed to hide this essential flaw. But several more countries are fighting for the primacy of creating such a sleeve model.

The first mention of this method of cutting occurs in English literature in the mid-nineteenth century, somewhere in 1862. It is generally accepted that the official time of invention was the period of the Crimean War (1853-1856). To this decision of tailors spodvigla bad weather on the peninsula. Constant rains heavily demoralized the army, and the absence of seams on clothes gave a chance that a person would not get wet. For the soldiers, this was not a very significant change, although the appearance of the form did change somewhat.

But there are facts that contradict the British version that they have come up with such a sleeve design. On one of the watercolors of the artist Feodor Solntseva, written in 1842, depicts a girl in an embroidered shirt, cut out with a classic raglan sleeve.

In general, the ends of this story can not be found now. But the descendants, it seems, do not need to know to the exact day when this or that method of modeling was invented. The main thing is to be able to use them for good.

Types of raglan

There are several modifications to this method of cutting parts, although there are classifications that are formed according to the main feature.

Armhole shape:

• Typical raglan - armhole passes through the neck not at its tops, but lower by one and a half to two centimeters.
• Zero raglan - the line of the armhole runs along the line of the neck and the back, touching in its corners (tops).
• Semireglan - armhole begins from the middle of the shoulder, without touching the neck.
• Raglan-shoulder straps - the armhole goes parallel to the shoulder, smoothly passing into the line of the armhole armhole.
• Fantasy raglan - a combination of an intangible sleeve and ways of modeling a coquette or neck.

Sleeve shape:

• Sheer - for broad shoulders.
• Soft - for the narrow.

Number of seams (depends on the construction pattern):

• Single-seam.
• Two-seam.
• Three-seam.

Selection under the silhouette

The Raglan dress has an amazing property to mask the shortcomings of the female figure. Especially it concerns wide or too narrow shoulders. Depending on how perpendicular or, conversely, the canopy line is raglan, you can visually narrow or widen the upper part of the trunk. In this case, the waist will not be too wide, as it is not necessary to cut a loose silhouette to give the volume to the shoulders.

What is raglan?

This type of sleeve, which is modeled and cut out together with the shoulder part of the back and the shelf of the future product. If in the classical version we sew a sleeve in the armhole and hope that it will lie properly and will not form wrinkles, then here we have no opportunity to screw up, since nothing needs to be ironed, picked up and labeled.

Sleeve construction

Pattern dress with a sleeve raglan begins with the construction of a pattern. If you already have ready-made forms for different sizes, then this will be a good help for your work.

On the paper for drawing contours (many of them are ordinary newsprint), we impose the already existing patterns of shelves and sleeves, while we combine the shoulder section with the upper point of the sleeve's hose so that a small angle appears between them. This size you can vary by yourself. It depends on how convex the raglan sleeve will be on the finished product. Pattern pins pins. On the shelf we mark the middle of the neck and divide it in half. From the received point (1/4 neck) we smoothly conduct two lines: one to the armhole, the other to the sleeve. In the same way, we repeat for the details of the backrest.

The construction of the pattern (raglan) is over. It remains only to transfer everything to the tracing paper, cut out and placed on the fabric.

The second version of the pattern

If the first method does not suit you for some reason or seems too cumbersome, then you can take advantage of the other. It is also not too simple, but sometimes it is more suitable for modeling the silhouette.

The construction of the pattern of a raglan sleeve in this case begins with the application of ordinary lines of the shelf to the copying paper . It is cut out, and then the breast dart is "closed" on it. That is, a triangle is cut out on the layout, showing the location of the dart, and the edges of the neck and armholes are cleaved together. To prevent the deformed leg, a cut is made on the dart at the waist and a small incision from the top of the thoracic dart to the armhole armhole. Then, when they are cleaved, they will open themselves to the required width. This technique is called transferring a dart. Then a sleeve is applied to the already formed shelf, and manipulations from the first variant are repeated. The construction of the pattern is finished. Raglan sleeves are sure to work out for you.

The mock method

It happens that you need to quickly find the details, and there is simply no time to mess with pieces of paper and templates. Then this method comes to the rescue. Pattern dress with a sleeve of raglan is drawn directly on the customer or on the mannequin.

First, do not forget that for a harmonious construction the midline of the shoulder moves a little forward by a centimeter, and the neck of the back rises by five millimeters. After you have closed all the darts on the shelf and backrest on your dummy, you combine the line of the cutting arm with the armhole line and finish the raglan. You should have two pieces of sleeve, separated by a center line with a center offset.

Strictly speaking, we already got a sleeve of raglan. The pattern in this case is of an auxiliary character, if the master doubts the correctness of the transferred darts.

Children's raglan

On small mods and women of fashion, this form of sleeve also looks very advantageous. And wearing dresses is more convenient when there are no seams that interfere with free movements. The pattern of raglan baby is much simpler than that of adults. There are no darts that need to be modeled, since the figure of the child does not have pronounced bends and bulges.

The dress pattern with a raglan sleeve for the girl is to evenly split the neckline into the four parts on the curtain rake. Then, outline the point on the armhole, which will be slightly above the chest line, and connect the points with a smooth line, from below to the armhole. On the back, you can make a straight line from the quarter of the neck to the line of the chest (the middle of the armhole).

Now you can form a sleeve. To do this, draw a trapezoid in which the sides are the length of the raglan on the back and the shelf, the top is the neck line with the raised side of the backrest at 05.1 centimeter in comparison with the front, and the lower side is a fragment of the circle. After placing patterns on the fabric, you can cut and stitch the finished product.

The dress pattern with a raglan sleeve for a child and an adult is not particularly difficult even for a beginner master.

Texture

The dress of raglan (photo attached) can be sewn from both dense and soft, flowing fabrics that emphasize the silhouette. Designers now like to combine leather sleeves with natural fabrics, jeans with guipure or organza, monochrome colors and bright, memorable drawings. In general, the scope for creativity is unlimited. The simplicity of the cut and the ability to adapt it to any type of figure open up a lot of possibilities.

Besides with a sleeve of raglan it is possible to sew not only dresses, but also shirts, blouses, jackets. This further extends the range of possibilities. So do not limit yourself, but create and surprise others. We hope that this article will be a reliable help in this matter.