FashionJewelry

Anchor and armouring of chains of gold and silver

In the distant past, all the chains were made by hand. First, the precious metals were stretched into a thin wire. Then it was folded into separate rings (links), assembled together, soldered and polished. Currently, the chains are made mainly on machine tools, and manually already much less often. The machine makes it possible to create completely new elegant configurations.

There are only three basic technologies of weaving chains. Anchor, armor and weaving bismarck. All existing bracelets and chains are divided by their weight. A product having a weight of up to three grams is called thin, and up to 10 grams - medium. If the weight of the chain exceeds 10 grams, such a weaving is called large.

To date, each of them has more than fifty varieties of jewelry connections, based on the principles of building standard weaving. Any of them has a personal name and can be made in both silver and gold. Unfortunately, in one article it is completely impossible to consider each one in detail, therefore we will get acquainted with the most popular weaving.

Common criteria for creating chains

Regardless of the weaving, all the chains are divided into hollow and solid. Varieties of products include three categories: men's, women's, children's. In addition, each has its own specific patterns. Hollow products combine lightness and volume. The material from which the decoration is made is hollow from the inside, therefore, with the outer thickness of the rings, the hollow chains are airy, light. In most cases, they are created using complex types of weaving. And they look quite solid! The main advantage of such chains in their moderate price, determined by the mass of the jewelry itself.

Whole chains are significantly heavier, which also affects the cost. However, they are extremely comfortable in daily wear. Due to the fact that jewelry is highly resistant to deformation and external influences, they are more durable. If all the links break, the specialist can easily solder and return the original condition to the product.

Due to its similarity to the rope, jewelry, created on the basis of the technology of twisted weaving, got its name by analogy - rope, or twisted weaving. Such a shell weave is a bent curved ring, twisted into a spiral. It occurs simultaneously in two main weave - anchor, armor. Such a weaving is considered to be a romantic style of jewelry, which is distinguished by a special refinement and lightness.

Varieties of anchoring weaving

Anchoring is to consistently fasten all the links of the product, which are perpendicular to each other. The links consist not only of one, but also of two rings. The cost of such a product is relatively low. Due to the fact that all the chains are created with the help of stamping, this is the most elementary, simple weaving. In the classical version, each ring has the shape of an oval. When there is a fixing plate inside the links, this weaving is called the "sea anchor".

If the anchor weave has round links, it is called "beltzer", or "rollo". In advertising this type of connection the leading role was played by the fashion house Chopard, therefore the anchor roll can have the second name - "shopard". Such a universal weaving is quite practical, strong. In addition, the finished product is equally irresistible and can look both on a woman and a man.

Chains weighing more than 10 grams, are quite an independent jewelry. Such a product is always remembered and speaks of the cast image of its owner. Medium and thin chains look great together with pendants, crosses, amulets. In addition, bracelets and chains are great for many styles of clothing.

Venetian weaving

Venetian weaving has a significant difference with the classic anchorage. The links of such a product have thin, wide rings. Their form is in the form of a square or a rectangle. The very same Venetian chain can be both double and triple weave. Everything is caused by the number of links woven into a single unit. An admirable strong connection is subject exclusively to a skilled craftsman. It is noteworthy that a special machine was created for its implementation.

Corded cord connection

There is another anchor weaving with the characteristic name "cord". The links of the bracelet enter into one another in several elements at the same time, jumping over 2-3 rings. Thanks to this connection, the product acquires a soft twisted configuration. Bracelets with chains look especially elegant and sublime because of the dense and complex bonding of links. The chain will look especially airy with small pendants, medallions, crosses.

Varieties of armouring

Pancreatic joints are inherent polished on both sides, as well as the links in one plane. When a shell braid is used, the bracelet or chain looks very impressive: it gives them a characteristic shine and uniqueness. The technology of making jewelry is similar to weaving chain mail, so it is very reliable. And the convenience of this product is that it is never twisted.

Experts believe that this technology is one of the most reliable. The armouring of the chain can be either single, double, or even triple. Chains in the classic performance equally fascinates both women and men. Solid decorations look good on top of clothes. Especially attractive chains will look on a sweater or jumper with an inflated throat. In the open areas of the body, thin and medium-sized products will look incredible. It is to such chains that small pendants and pendants are perfect. Especially as an evening dress.

"Italian rhombo"

Some weaves have a characteristic rhombic configuration of the links, fastened one to the other. A particularly practical and reliable decoration is a bracelet or chain that has a double armor plaiting. This kind of connection of links is called "double diamond", and in the Italian statement - "rhombo". This form was widely spread not only among men. Jewelry made in a diamond-shaped weave, fit virtually everyone, regardless of age and sex. Such jewelry is extremely effective not only in conjunction with evening dresses, but also with strict classical suits.

Maglia della Nonna

No less interesting is the variety of armored compound, like "nonna". This name is derived from Maglia della Nonna, which in Italian means "grandmother's weave". Inside the large rounded links are miniature rings, forming a voluminous intricate pattern. This compound is called "combined carapace." Due to a peculiar feature of such a shell weaving is recognized as sufficiently strong. A chain with such a connection will highlight the irresistibility and gracefulness of its possessor. Due to the inherent flexibility of jewelry, it can play extraordinarily in the light. Bracelets and chains are perfect for an evening dress. Especially expressive and harmonious products will look with openwork clothes. In addition, jewelry perfectly worn both on top of clothes and under it.

"Figaro"

Among the following varieties, we can distinguish the armor plaiting of the chain, bracelet "figaro". The products are distinguished by a certain inconstancy, like the hero of the comedy Beaumarchais. Similar execution of joints belongs to the category of combined armor plaits. And thanks to the house of the Cartier fashion, the chains got a second name - "cartier". The principle of creation is quite simple. The links of one configuration are interspersed with the rings of another in the assigned order. The product looks rather unusual and laconic, representing a harmonious combination of multiple links.

Jewelry Lace Snake

Weave with a rounded section is called "Snake" (Snake), or simply "lace". Jewelry is created by compressing the links not only in the shell weave, but also other classical types. For example, there are products not only with oval, but also with a flat section. This is a light, hollow chain that creates the impression of a real snake with its light graceful zigzag. Among women, jewelry made in this technique is incredibly popular. Especially if this jewelry elegance has a braided gold braid. At the same time they are extremely reliable and graceful. In addition, this configuration looks great both individually and in the headset ensemble.

Solid hearts

Among the jewelry there is another weave. Its name - "lav" - the product received due to its characteristic form. Its links fastened to the openwork weave are like hearts in their configuration. This air decoration is ideal only for women. The chains perfectly co-exist with elegant pendants and crosses.

Rigid Singapore netting

Twisted weaving "Singapore" is equally great for products such as chains and bracelets. If a golden chain is put on hand, the Singapore weave will gleam playfully in the sun with each movement. Such a unique combination of rings will always look new and charming. The product is ideal for any kind of clothing. In other words, to evening dresses and daily clothes.

Solidity of weaving "bismarck"

In Russia, mainly in the 90-ies, the presence of a jewelry made using the "bismarck" technology, expressed the high status of its owner. According to one version, the name of the weaving was given in honor of German Chancellor Otto von Bismarck. This connection of the units is also known as "cardinal", or "kaiser".

Due to the fact that weaving is one of the most complex, solid and massive pattern is usually created manually, which significantly affects the cost of jewelry. Jewelry is made with the help of rings, consisting of several reversed links in different directions. You can find a double, and a triple, and even a quadruple weave. Due to this it is one of the most reliable.

"Bismarck" has many varieties, the most difficult is Byzantine weaving. Due to the presence of individual thickness and magnitude among all, it is possible to distinguish the link connection "python". It has other names. For example, "American", "Italian" or "whim". Uncommon and complex weaving incredibly well sparkles in the sun, so it is extremely popular with the beautiful half of humanity.

In which weaving to choose an ornament?

Undoubtedly, the issue of choice for everyone is absolutely individual. However, some varieties of chains are traditionally considered to be male, female or universal jewelry. Thus, men basically prefer a solid cumbersome weaving "bismarck". Female gender traditionally prefers graceful chain models. For example, a gold chain on hand, made in the technique of "Singapore", "nonna" or "lav", as well as many other modifications, are considered iconno feminine. If we talk about universal products, then the most common option is the anchor. Chains with dense weaving are more suitable for children. For example, "snake" or jewelry cords made of leather, rubber.

Another important criterion of choice is the length of the product. A woman is recommended to wear chains up to 50 centimeters, a man - longer. To make it easier for you to navigate, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some of the dimensions that can be determined by eye. So, the chain, located at the very neck, is 40 centimeters. If the bottom edge of the decoration reaches the upper level of the neckline - 50 centimeters. On the average, the neckline is 60 cm, on the lower part - 70 cm.

However, as in any other rule, individual exceptions may arise. During the purchase of jewelry, you must try on the decoration. And if you are not sure about the compatibility of the two products, leave one of them. On this occasion even once said the delightful Coco Chanel. Picking up jewelry, get rid of the one that was put on last.

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