Cylinder brake rear. Replacement of the back brake cylinder

The braking system is an important part of any car. On most machines, it is controlled by hydraulics, that is, by means of fluid pressure. The system also includes a brake rear cylinder. In today's article, we'll look at the device, the symptoms of a malfunction and the replacement of this element.

Device

Modern cars use disc brakes. However, on machines of budget class, it is installed only in front. The rear wheels are controlled by drums. To bring the brake pads into operation, the rear brake cylinder is used. VAZ-2110 is also equipped with them.

The brake system of this car includes the following elements:

• Front calipers.
• Hoses and tubes.
• Working and master cylinder rear brake.

2110 and other models of VAZ include a vacuum amplifier. It is controlled by the brake pedal. Pressure is created from the pistons of the cylinder, which acts on the pads.

Characteristics and manufacturers

On VAZ cars, the rear brake cylinder is a device containing 2 pistons inside. The body itself is made of metal. But it happens that it gives a crack. Most often because of marriage. To date, there are several original manufacturers of these elements:

• Kraft.
• "Basalt".

Among foreign it is necessary to note:

• «Phenox».
• "AND THOSE".
• "Lucas".

How much do the rear brake cylinders of the VAZ cost? The price of the new element is from 300 to 500 rubles. The most expensive is the vacuum amplifier. Its cost varies from 1.5 to 2 thousand rubles for domestic cars.

Symptoms of a malfunction

How do I determine if an item requires a replacement? First of all, the breakdown can be detected by the level of the hydraulic fluid, which began to vanish in the master cylinder tank. The latter is under the hood, near the vacuum brake booster. It should be noted that when the pedal is operated, the liquid is always reduced from the tank. But as soon as you release it, the pistons will return to their original position and the level will resume. If this does not happen, look for a problem.

Also, leaks can come from the cylinder itself. In this case, the rear drum will be wet. Well, the last sign is the behavior of the car when braking. The pedal starts to "grasp" at the very end, sometimes it is necessary to press several times to create the necessary pressure. These signs indicate that the car needs to replace the rear brake cylinder. Do not postpone repair for later - it's your safety.

Why is this happening?

In most cases, the failure of this element occurs due to natural wear and tear. The brake rear cylinder is a very reliable part, and its service life is about 200 thousand kilometers. If the car has not yet reached this mileage, the cuffs are most likely damaged. This happens when the brake fluid is not replaced or mixed with other brands. It absorbs moisture well, which makes it ineffective. And the water begins to corrode all the metal parts. Therefore, the fluid must be changed every two years, regardless of the mileage of the car. Also, the brake rear cylinder fails because of the squeezed pistons. This happens when the rear shoe is not replaced in time. Sometimes the pistons simply jam, because of what the car constantly slows down on the move or a little brakes. In this case, the drum starts to get very hot.

Next, what you need to pay attention to is the technology of bleeding the brakes. Doing this work, do not break the union on the cylinder. If it has got stuck (which often happens), get a repair kit so that in case of deformation it is possible to replace the damaged element. Some motorists lightly tap the hull around the fitting and splatter the WD-40. In some cases it helps. Next, we'll look at how to remove the old brake rear cylinder and install a new one in its place.

Replacement

For this we need a jack, a balloon, a hammer and a set of spanners (if it's a VAZ, then two for 10 and 12). First we put the car on the transfer. The hand lever can not be used, since it uses our cylinders. Further we tear off bolts on a back wheel. We raise the car on the jack. Remove the wheel and unscrew it with a key for 12 bolts on the drum. The latter is extracted outside. If it is stuck, you can "heave" it with hammer blows. In order not to damage the drum (since it can crack from such actions), we use a wooden block as a lining. After that, remove the pads and turn the brake hoses with a 10-key.

Be careful - when disassembling, liquid will flow from them. Work in rubber gloves. And that the liquid does not splash on the floor, prepare a container (for example, a plastic bottle). In order to remove the rear cylinder, using the same key, unscrew the two mounting bolts. At this stage, the dismantling is complete. Now we attach a new part to the place. Installation is in the reverse order. After assembling the system, be sure to pump the brakes. This operation is also performed when replacing the pads and any elements of the system, be it a tube or a vacuum amplifier.

How to pump

To finally remove air from the system, you will need an assistant. The latter must press the brake pedal on command. Also you will need a container, where the air will be poured out. It is best that it is transparent. The usual bottle from under mineral water will approach. It will take a hose, through which the liquid will flow from the nozzle into the container. It can be any rubber or silicone tube. It is desirable that it also be transparent.

So, how to properly brake after replacing the rear cylinder? First add the liquid in the plastic reservoir of the master cylinder to the required level. Then connect the hose with one end to the unscrewed nipple, and the second we lower into the bottle. The assistant should press the brake pedal 4-5 times and at the last one clamp it "in the floor". As you press the hydraulic fluid will start to leave the system. For the first time it contains many small air bubbles. It would Seem, it was possible and not to pump. But they interfere with effective inhibition. The force of air compression is much easier than liquid, and there is a great deal of heating.

When to finish the procedure? After each pumping step, the amount of air, viz. The bubbles, will decrease. This is done until they completely disappear from the liquid. To determine this, use only transparent tubes and a container. After this, screw the union back and check the liquid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It should decrease. We add up again to the maximum mark. Remember that the brand of the substance that goes to the topping should be the same with that used in the car now.

Advice

After these works it is necessary to check the serviceability of the new element. To do this, press the brake pedal and lock it in this position (it is advisable to have an assistant). Next, you need to scroll the wheel. It must be in the posted state. The drum must not rotate. If this happens, or when the pedal is depressed from the nozzles, liquid has flowed, check that the part is correctly installed. It will not be superfluous to check serviceability on the go. Do this at low speed, since after pumping the pressure in the system drops, and when you first press the pedal, nothing usually happens. The machine should brake well and hold the handbrake.

Conclusion

So, we found out what price the rear brake cylinder is, and how to make its replacement with our own hands. For the future, remember that effective braking should be provided at 1/3 of the total pedal travel. Any deviation will indicate a malfunction of the cylinder or leakage in tubes and fittings.